Through the drizzle, we see Alghero’s City walls loom before us, thick, tall and flanked by sea. Inside, the streets coil around stone churches and the city’s windows are draped with blood red coral. From our apartment’s window we have a view of a damp cobble street; to the left there is a white church, and to the right Cattedrale di Santa Maria. Its bells echo through the building every hour during the day and into the night, and the doors are open until midnight.

For dinner we eat prosciutto and blue cheese, followed by salty, succulent suckling pig and soft baked potatoes. We walk atop the city walls. The clouds have shifted to reveal a milky white moon.