It must be a funny thing, to live with the constant hum of crickets – like tinnitus, I suppose. A long time today I sat listening to those crickets, under the shade of the old olive trees in the garden. We’ve been slow and sluggish today – fragile from devilishly strong wine, bottled like vegetableContinue reading “Day Five: Crickets”
Tag Archives: kefalonia
Day Four: Skala
Skala reminds me of holidays as a child, in Spain, where you pay €6 for a pair of sunbeds and stay there all day. We do just that. The sea is calm and flat, and the salt hums like crickets. Shoals of silver fish swim between my feet, so perfectly blended into the ripples of theContinue reading “Day Four: Skala”
Day Three: Fiscardo
We wind our way along Kefalonia’s western coast, toing and froing from the ocean to the rocky headland, and after two hours of hairpin bends, we arrive at Fiscardo – one of the few towns left unscathed by the 1953 earthquake. The houses, built during the 300-year Venetian rule, are all pink and pastel blue. IContinue reading “Day Three: Fiscardo”
Day Two: Sami and Melissani Cave
A morning swim in an empty cove, the fishes tickling our toes. We watch another snorkeler stride out of the water holding a spear and his catch – an octopus and six little fish, decanted from his Speedos into a carrier bag. I mean, how else are you going to carry half a dozen wriggling fish?Continue reading “Day Two: Sami and Melissani Cave”
Day One – Kefalonia
We go to sleep to the conspiring whispers of crickets and wake up to the rattling song of the Sardinian Warblers nested in the olive trees. Kefalonia. It’s greener than I imagined, and mottled with soft hills. We drive to the nearest cove and eat omelettes with a sea view. I try Greek coffee –Continue reading “Day One – Kefalonia”