By eleven I’m eating gumbo. It’s silky smooth, seasoned heavily with cayenne and paprika and delicious. I’m spending the morning at the New Orleans School of Cookery, listening to a NOLA native explain the fundamentals of making a brown roux (it requires at least 15 minutes of whisking: “if the mailman needs you, shout forContinue reading “Day Fourteen: Gumbo”
Tag Archives: New Orleans
Day Thirteen: Not Haunted
By the time we make it to the Quarter the heat is unbearable. A shopkeeper bemoans summer in New Orleans: the streets are empty and cabin fever is rife. If autumn ever comes, it sure as hell feels a long way off. St. Louis Cathedral is a cool relief from the furious heat and jazzContinue reading “Day Thirteen: Not Haunted”
Day Eleven: The City of New Orleans
The train waits, grey and strong and noble, at the platform. We stow our bags on the lower deck and climb to a lounge with panoramic windows. The Amtrak ploughs for eight hours through the swamps of Mississippi. Trailer parks and clusters of weather-beaten shacks break up the swathes of lurid green water; at oneContinue reading “Day Eleven: The City of New Orleans”
To The Table 