Day Two: Neptune’s Grotto

At about 9am the church bells are drowned out by furious hammering in the apartment above us, the sound echoing through the thick stone walls. A cappuccino by the sea; a walk through Alghero’s historical centre, and we’re ready to face the Sardinian roads. With the sea on our left, we drive towards the headland. The ocean begins to unfold as we climb higher and higher, until there is nothing but turquoise ahead. Eventually we reach the lighthouse that was beaming towards Alghero the night before. It’s a dead end.

But there are steps. They cling to the cliff edge, gradually descending into the sea. We follow them, not quite knowing what we’ll find at the bottom. It’s not until they curl inside the mouth of a cave that we realise we’ve stumbled upon Neptune’s Grotto – one of the most renown stalactite caves on the island.

That evening we go in search of seafood. We find it in the form of spaghetti al vongole and pasta with octopus. It is a day of wine, adventure and very big decisions (but more on that tomorrow).